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Tag Archives: Bocas del Toro

Happy New Year

31 Saturday Dec 2016

Posted by Cindy in Uncategorized

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Bocas del Toro, cruising Panama, Red Frog Marina, Sailing to Panama

New countries, jungles, beautiful cities, lightening, rain, patience, family and friends sums up our travels in 2016.  Since January, we have traveled 2,375 nautical miles adding five new stamps to our passports (El Salvador, Costa Rica, Guatemala, Panama and Columbia).  In November the southwest Caribbean, where we are, experienced not only its latest but also the most southerly hurricane.  It then passed through Nicaragua over to the Pacific with the eye passing directly over our friends on Third Wish who were anchored in Costa Rica (they are okay).  Since we began cruising, Mexico experienced the biggest hurricane at a Category 5 and the earliest blowing through prior to June 1.  Hope this isn’t a trend!

We started January 2016 at the always fun La Cruz marina in Banderas Bay, Mexico.  After loading up on our favorite pizza, tacos, and shrimp we headed south stopping at our favorite places in Mexico (think French baker) where we had traveled in 2015.   As we moved south past the point where most cruisers turn back, we reached more remote areas including the famous (and dangerous) Acapulco and met people with many years of cruising experience from a variety of nations.  Our scariest time was crossing the bar into El Salvador.  Way more drama then we wanted.  Through Costa Rica and Panama we experienced intense and frightening lightening storms but also hiked in the jungle, caught our first glimpse of monkeys, sloths and volcanos up close and personal.  We loved the cities we visited, Oaxaca, Antigua and especially Cartagena, Columbia.  One of the highlights of the year was transiting the Panama Canal with Austin, Nicki and friends.  I had read The Path Between the Seas by David McCullough and was thinking we would have saved a lot of miles if they had put the canal in Nicaragua.

In September we spent three weeks in California visiting with family and friends all the while fulfilling our cravings for food and drink that we miss (Celestino’s pizza, craft beer and a properly made cocktail!).  Packing the thirty or so items we had shipped to Austin in our two carry-on bags was a challenge but it all fit.

We’ve been in Panama longer than planned due to Hurricane Otto followed by high winds and seas this time of year known as the Christmas winds.  But we have made many friends here, was introduced to Abuelo and club soda, and even had the birth of a baby girl on our dock.

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Thanksgiving with our cruising friends at Red Frog Marina.  If there was a crazy shirt contest, Gary would have won hands down.  The pup in the picture is an under nourished stray mama who had just given birth.  Our boat neighbors Jess and Josh started feeding her that day and will be adopting her once her pups are weened.

Craig and Gary checking out the turkey for the Thanksgiving feast.

Craig and Gary checking out the turkey for the Thanksgiving feast.

Reflecting on this year would not be complete without remembering the two dear friends we lost. I know we will beat cancer someday.

Thank you for reading our blog and following along on this adventure.  In 2016 we had visitors from 66 countries.  Gary and I wish all our family and friends good health and much laughter in 2017.

Celebrating our anniversary with Craig and Liz from Salida

Celebrating our anniversary with Craig and Liz from Salida who introduced us to Abuelo and club soda

 

Merry Christmas from Bocas del Toro

20 Tuesday Dec 2016

Posted by Cindy in Uncategorized

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Bocas del Toro, Surf Break @ Paunch

We were hoping to send our Christmas greetings from Roatan, Honduras but Hurricane Otto had other plans. The tropical wave turned tropical storm churned off our coast for several weeks before turning into a hurricane north of us. That was to be our window for moving north at the end of hurricane season and before the Christmas winds kicked in.

christmas-winds

This is the weather forecast for today. The black arrow is where we are in Bocas Del Toro. Along with those 20-25 knot ‘Christmas winds’ you see in red are seas in the 10-12 foot range. So yeah we are staying put for now.

We recently found a very cool spot for lunch. If anyone finds themselves on Isla Colon in Bocas Del Toro be sure to make the trip out to Surf Break @ Paunch. Bring your surf board, stay the night but be sure to try out their tacos. Very original and the menu is always changing. I had pulled pork with a potato mash and Gary had the Frito Taco Pie. Our friends Craig and Liz had the breakfast and southern gravy tacos and we all agreed it was well worth the taxi ride out.

surfatpaunch

http://surfbreakatpaunch.com

Gary and I wish you all a very Merry Christmas!

Monkey Island Refuge, Bocas del Toro, Panama

17 Monday Oct 2016

Posted by Cindy in Uncategorized

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Bocas del Toro, Eco-lodge Isla Tigre, Geoffrey's Tamarin Monkey, Monkey Island Refuge, Panamanian Red-Crested Tamarin, Squirrel Monkey, Urraca, White Faced Capuchin Monkey

After several days of rain, eight of us headed out in a panga on a gorgeous day to the Monkey Island Refuge located on the private island of Urraca. Built by Canadian Francine, Urraca is a mangrove island containing an eco-lodge of five bungalows connected by wooden paths over the water.

The eco-lodge is self sustaining with solar power and a rain water catching system.

The eco-lodge is self sustaining with solar power and a rain water catching system.

The wooden paths and platforms are over shallow water teeming with fish.

The wooden paths and platforms are over shallow water teeming with fish.

The lodge itself is beautiful but the main attraction is the monkeys that Francine has provided a refuge for. These are monkeys that were taken in as ‘pets’ and then abandoned when the owners realized what they got themselves into. No longer able to survive in the wild, Francine has created a safe haven for them.

As soon as we stepped off the panga we were met by a group of Geoffrey’s Tamarin Monkey’s also known as the Panamanian Red-Crested Tamarin. Only found in Panama and Colombia, these tiny friendly monkey’s ran up our legs and climbed on our shoulders for attention.

The Geoffrey's Tamarin Monkey.

The Geoffrey’s Tamarin Monkey.

Also known as the Panamanian Red-Crested Tamarin, they are very social.  Here Gary is getting a little help trying to figure out the camera on his new phone.

Also known as the Panamanian Red-Crested Tamarin, they are very social. Here Gary is getting a little help trying to figure out the camera on his new phone.

In addition to the Tamarin monkey, Francine takes in two other breeds. The White Faced Capuchin monkey has a high intellect and as with many wild animals they are too dangerous to let out of their enclosure. We were able to interact with them up close and watch their antics. The momma of the group was the most social and she liked to dance for us.

The beautiful Squirrel Monkey was the last group we played with. Gentle and playful they bounced from person to person chasing each other all around.

One of the few times any of the Squirrel Monkey's looked directly at me long enough to get a picture.

One of the few times any of the Squirrel Monkey’s looked directly at me long enough to get a picture.

They would take food out of our hands then run off to eat in the mangroves.

They would take food out of our hands then run off to eat in the mangroves.

This little guy was very intent on getting the coke out of that bottle.

This little guy was very intent on getting the coke out of that bottle.

A picture within a picture!

A picture within a picture!

A nice place to sit and watch the sea life as well as the local families paddling by in their canoes.

A nice place to sit and watch the sea life as well as the local families paddling by in their canoes.

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monkey-island-at-isla-tigre-088small

Thanks to Karen on s/v Amokura for organizing such a great adventure. For more information on the wonderful things Francine has planned go to: https://monkeyislandtours.wordpress.com

Fair winds,
Cindy

Bocas Del Toro, Panama

01 Thursday Sep 2016

Posted by Cindy in Uncategorized

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Bocas del Toro, Isla Bastimento, Isla Colon, Rana Azul

Bocas Del Toro (Mouths of the Bull) is an archipelago in Panama. There are nine main islands and we are at the Red Frog Marina on the island of Bastimento. The main town of Bocas Del Toro (Bocas Town) is on Isla Colon a 15 minute water taxi ride. Luckily the marina provides a free water shuttle 4 days a week so we can get our grocery shopping done. If we want to do dinner in town, we have to hire a water taxi at $7.00 per person one way. A bit pricey but we convince ourselves it is the same cost for dinner and a movie in California. With that thought, ten of us rented a water taxi and hit up the BBQ at the Calypso Cantina. Complete with a steel drummer and good company it was a fun night. Getting home in the dark was a bit sketchy but we seemed to dodge the unlit canoes.

Our fellow cruisers from Red Frog Marina enjoying BBQ night at the Calypso Cantina in Bocas Town. Karen, Liz, Gary, Rich, Rex, Dave, Craig, and Cindy (l to r).

Our fellow cruisers from Red Frog Marina enjoying BBQ night at the Calypso Cantina in Bocas Town. Karen, Liz, Gary, Rich, Rex, Dave, Craig, and Cindy (l to r).

Love to hear a steel pan

Love to hear a steel pan

The following day a group of us headed out in a panga to some ‘boat races’ on another island 30 minutes away. The boat race ‘committee’ was a group of islanders who declared the following Saturday race day and that each participate would throw $50.00 in a pot. Whoever won got the pot. The boats were all handmade from wood, about 18 inches wide and maybe 14-16 feet long. We were told there were different classes depending on the size of the outboard. We docked at the local restaurant and from the stares we sure startled the locals. They served up a good lobster plate pre-race but the wood platform we were all standing on was getting so crowded and hot we climbed back in our panga after eating and headed out to the center of the race track to better see the race.

We headed to one of the outer islands to watch some boat races.  The kitchen at this restaurant is the little building to the left.  Liz brought her own bottle of rum.  Add some coke and ice and we had ourselves a party.

Liz brought her own bottle of rum to the races. Add some coke and ice and we had ourselves a party. I promise we did have food before the boat race. The kitchen at this restaurant is the little building to the left.

With 75 locals all crammed on a tiny platform watching the boats race, we headed out in our panga to the middle of the course and hung out with these guys.

We hung out with these guys to watch the races. One is an expat who owns an island here and the other is a local.

The outboard is probably 60 hp.

The outboard is probably 60 hp.

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We watched a few boats racing, but as is typical either no one else showed up or island time was in full swing. Getting restless we decided to head out and do some snorkeling.

The race was held at a small village with a footbridge to get from one island to the other.

The race was held at a small village with a footbridge to get from one island to the other.

Boating is the way of life on the islands.  No cars here.  Each house had several panga's tied up.

Boating is the way of life on the islands. No cars here. Each house had several panga’s tied up.

We stopped to swim and snorkel off the panga and Dave found a conch.  Tasty to eat but we threw it back.

We stopped to swim and snorkel off the panga and Dave found a conch. Tasty to eat but we threw it back.

Sereno had been in her slip for two months and she was not happy. So early on a Sunday morning we threw off the dock lines and along with Craig and Liz on board Salida, we headed to Rana Azuls restaurant on the mainland three hours away. It was a hot windless day and we wanted nothing more than to jump in the water after we anchored. Gary was up on the bow dropping the anchor and what does he see but water filled with jellyfish. UGH!! So down goes the dinghy and we head in to Rana Azuls for some cold drinks, good food and fans. The nice thing about a moving house is the next day you can pull up the anchor and move to an island that has no jellyfish and that is just what we did.

Gary in his typical sailing attire.  But is he Au Naturel?

Gary in his typical sailing attire. But is he Au Naturel?

Fair winds,
Cindy

Passage to Bocas del Toro

08 Friday Jul 2016

Posted by Cindy in Uncategorized

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Bocas del Toro, Red Frog Marina

Our sail to Bocas del Toro is our slowest passage yet. What should have taken 23 hours took us a little over 30 averaging 4.7 knots (we hope for 5.5). We fought a current along with head winds so we had to listen to the drone of the motor the entire time. Sure we could have put the sails up and tacked back and forth but with storms in the area and choppy conditions we wanted to get the heck off the sea as soon as possible. Finally our home for the summer came in to view. Bocas del Toro is an archipelago of islands with many shoals and mangroves scattered around but with the marinas waypoints we had no problems.

Our home for a few months.

Our home for a few months.

Rain has been the name of the game since we arrived. What we refer to as Jersey weather. In between storms we walk the trails, head to the beach, or go out in the dinghy. Our 4th of July BBQ with the other boats actually happened on July 5th due to rain, but a party is a party no matter what day it is when you are retired and in the tropics. We have a few beach bars and restaurants within walking distance.

Nacho Mamas is our beach bar.  Cold beer and good tacos.

Nacho Mamas is our beach bar. Cold beer and good tacos.

Siesta time

Siesta time

Bocas is a surfer town for sure.

Bocas is a surfer town for sure.

The real action along with groceries is in Bocas Town a 15 minute panga ride away. Not ideal for getting out for happy hour and dinner but we did manage to have lunch at the Hungry Monkey, which is a surfing school with a four table restaurant serving great tacos and cold beers. Always amazed at how these little places turn out The Best Food. We also have a craft brewery a little out of town, which makes a very good stout and amber ale. Hoping to get back there when their IPA is ready to tap. They don’t bottle and their growlers will not fit in our tiny refrigerator. Oh wait, I just had a thought. What if we remove all the food!?

A very nice amber ale at Bocas Brewery

A very nice amber ale at Bocas Brewery

We have been caught in town in a downpour and frequently get drenched in the panga when we have a cowboy at the helm when the seas are up. How many gringo’s can we get wet today! Yesterday on our walk, Gary almost stepped on a green vine snake. This thing was a lime green color and I thought it was a piece of a tree branch. So much for snakes scurrying out of your way. Who told us that!? This type of snake is not venomous for humans but could cause a severe allergic reaction. Good to know! Wanted to share in case you are dreaming of sailing off to the tropics. Not for everyone and you pretty much have to keep your sense of humor. But one plus to the frequent downpours is we don’t have to wash the boat. A real plus for me because that is one of my least favorite jobs.

Bocas Town

Bocas Town

Bocas Town

Bocas Town

Fair winds,
Cindy

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