Hurricane Dorian

When we set off on At Ease from the Chesapeake, our plan was to meander down the ICW and arrive at Brunswick Georgia on September 1st.  With it being so stinking hot, we were not too keen on anchoring out so we arrived a few weeks ahead of schedule and its a darn good thing we did.  Right after we got the rest of our stuff out of storage and put away on the boat Dorian started heading our way. 

We are the blue dot

With no sails or canvas, the outside of At Ease is easy to prep for a storm.  But preparing the inside for the worse case scenario meant moving things we didn’t want to lose off the boat and into our car.  And to complicate the matter, we had early morning flights to California five days after Dorian was to pass Brunswick.  With the Governor ordering a mandatory evacuation, we had to not only get the important stuff off the boat but also pack our bags for California on the chance that we would not be able to return to the boat before our scheduled departure.  We were also thinking ahead and anticipating pointing the car west and driving to California.  So pack we did and then headed off to Atlanta for a 3 day forced vacation if there is ever such a thing when you are retired.

Fourteen lines and eight fenders.  Gary left a cork upright on the counter and it was still there when we returned.

The highlights of our Atlanta trip can best be summed up in the following photos.  It was too hot to do our usual walking tour but we did navigate MARTA, their train system, and I drove through the surface streets of downtown during rush hour in search of Trader Vics.  If anyone saw a grey Toyota driving down the bike lane outside the Hilton, I plead the 5th.

Centennial Olympic Park site of the 1996 Olympic Games in Atlanta

Centennial Olympic Park – flags from the countries lined the fountain square

There is a gigantic ferris wheel right outside the park

We toured the World of Coca Cola and this is the safe where the recipe is stored.

Trader Vics Atlanta. There are only two in the US and we have now been to both. The other is in Emeryville California.

Sweetwater Brewing Company

We lucked out and Dorian stayed well off shore so we were able to get back on the boat the day after the storm passed us.  And we were already all packed for California!

Fair winds,


Spending Time in Savannah

After 586 nm we are in one of our favorite cities, Savannah, Georgia.  We need a few things on the boat serviced so decided to spend some time here where resources are much more available.  The nice thing about transiting the ICW this time of year is there is always room at the marinas.  Not many people are crazy enough to travel in this heat as they made the trek up north months ago.  While the ICW is very scenic, our favorite part so far was the trip from Osprey Marina in Myrtle Beach to Harborwalk Marina in Georgetown SC.  Wide spaces, deep channels and cypress tree lined waterway made for a relaxing and beautiful sail.  We already planned our north passage through there next spring.  Will definitely take advantage of the beautiful anchorages, intimate marinas and numerous fishing coves we saw.  

While traveling on the ocean we saw so much marine life and I knew that was something we were going to miss.  But low and behold we have seen a lot of dolphins along the way, small turtles and a family of sea otters eating crustaceans off the dock by our slip.   I’m still waiting to spot a bald eagle.  

We will stay in this area for the remainder of this week before slowly heading south to Brunswick, Georgia for the main part of hurricane season.  Not a bad place to hang for awhile.

Sunrise leaving the St Johns Marina on the Stono River in Charleston, South Carolina

Fair winds,


Introducing Our New Boat

Holy cow it has been a month since I last posted.  So much has happened.  Yes we closed on our new boat on July 1st.   We arrived that morning with a small U-Haul with our stuff and started moving on.  But let me back up and tell you about her.   She is a Nordic Tug 32 with an overall length of 34 including the swim platform and bow sprite.  So essentially her inside space is about 24 feet long with the remaining being outdoor space.   Her width is 11 feet with a depth of 3 feet 8 inches and she has a lovely sun deck on top that we absolutely love.   But compare those measurements with Sereno at 41 feet, 13.3 width and 6 1/2 foot depth and she is considerably smaller but exactly what we wanted.   Now to the part about moving on.  Well let’s just say it was a challenge finding a place for what we consider our essentials during an extreme heat wave the east coast has been experiencing.  We do have air conditioning but this heat is taxing it big time.  Because she was located in what was basically a boat yard, we had to move on fairly quickly so on July 7th with threw off the dock lines and headed south on the Inter Coastal Waterway (ICW).  Because the boat was so new to us, the captain was not too happy with that plan but off we went passing from Virginia into North Carolina a couple hours later.  In two weeks we have logged 294 nm and are currently in Wilmington, North Carolina.   Our stops in North Carolina have included Coinjock Marina, Alligator Marina in Columbia, Belhaven, Oriental, New Bern, Beaufort, Surf City, and Masonboro.  Not bad for our first two weeks.  The captain is loving the 270 hp single engine with bow and stern thrusters.  So is the swabby because she can now step off the boat and tie her off as the captain gently brings her in to the dock.    

The ICW is definitely a different mode of boating for us.  With ocean crossings we are used to wide open spaces and never checking our depth unless we were entering a channel, anchorage or marina.  Here on the ICW our eyes are glued to the chart plotter watching for the shallow spots.  We need a bit more time to feel more comfortable with it and the incredibly rude weekend boaters we have encountered.  But enough said on that.  

So without further ado, we introduce At Ease.  The previous owner was a Rear Admiral in the Navy.  In honor of our military, which has included many family and friends, we have kept the name. 

Our Nordic Tug 32

We left the home port of Charleston. Why not?  The top sundeck is great for watching the sunset.

The Captain has a nice shady spot and a comfortable seat.

We can fit four for dinner and the table folds up when not in use.

We have more refrigeration with side by side units. Still working on this space so more pics to come.

The good news is, we easily fit under this 65 foot bridge.

Here are some pictures of the things we have seen.

Along the ICW you get to see all the houses you can’t see from the road.

New Bern is known for their bears throughout downtown.  The restaurants and shops have all recovered from last years hurricane.  Sadly the hotel and convention center by the marina have not reopened.


Sunset over the shrimp boats in Oriental.

Our view at Topside Island Marina, Surf City, NC

RE Mayo Shrimp Company and Marina along the ICW

We loved the small town of Belhaven, NC. Beautiful old homes. They had just celebrated July 4th and they all proudly still flew their American flags.

The River Forest Marina in Belhaven, NC provided free golf carts as well as free laundry. Always very much appreciated.

Fair winds,


Places To Go Things To See

That title pretty much sums up our current plans.  So much so that it is now the name of our blog

After we sold Sereno, we spent five weeks traveling 4000 miles crisscrossing Florida before we figured out what kind of boat we wanted.  As luck would have it, our Florida journeys took place during one of the Love Bug seasons.   Those of you from Florida are laughing right now.  Those of you in the dark, imagine driving down the freeway through swarms of a million black bugs mating.   At one point we had to pull off the road because we couldn’t see out of the windshield.  We washed and scrubbed the car every day since acid from their smashed little bodies can pit the paint on your car.  Really really gross.

Ironically after crisscrossing Florida for weeks we found ‘the boat’ in Chesapeake, Virginia and on May 30th we signed a contract.   Three weeks later we are still waiting to close.  There are a few things we wanted checked out from the survey and here on the east coast that seems to take time.  We closed on our first two boats in a week in California.  Learning patience here in the south but keeping our fingers crossed we will be on board by July 1.

So what have we been doing besides boat shopping, cleaning smashed bugs from the car, enjoying king sized beds and Hollywood showers?  We are fortunate to have family in New Jersey and Florida who where willing to take us in off the streets for a bit.  We loved our visits and are very grateful for their hospitality.  Their washers and dryers were a plus too.  Almost 40 years later we were able to return to Williamsburg, Virginia and it is as pretty as we remembered it.  I could live there if it was just a little warmer in the winter.  We were places in Florida we hadn’t been and the whole Norfolk area of Virginia was new as well.  We have stayed in over 30 hotels scoring some cheap nights in a few resorts offering mid-week deals.  If anyone needs recommendations for budget hotels in Florida and Virginia, let us know.  Tips on packing and traveling light,  we have them.  But we are looking forward to having a place to call home and unpacking after 12 weeks of living out of a suitcase.


Saying Goodbye to Sereno II

On April 18th with heavy hearts we thanked Sereno for keeping us safe on our journeys and asked her to protect her new owners.  We loved living and traveling on Sereno but have decided to explore the rivers and inland waters of the east coast and Canada which requires a boat more suited for shallow waters and the many bridges and locks we will encounter.  It was a sad day but we are looking forward to our new adventures.

We frequently talk about our trip and the things we experienced.  Fun but also scary at times.  If you told me when I was a kid that I would be sailing in a 41 foot sailboat over 8000 nm from California to the east coast I would have said no way.  But we stepped out of our comfort zone and had a blast.  Anyway, thank you for following along.

This is the sailing vessel Sereno II out

Calm Seas

Loving the calm seas and feeling good that Sereno II took care of us during the rough parts.

Mahi Mahi 2

He was still moving and right after the picture was taken I was out of there LOL

At Anchor

Sereno II at anchor

Oakley sep 2014

Our bosun mate.  Oakley’s last day on the boat before she went to college with her brother.

Reflections on our Europe Trip


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Why didn’t we go years ago?  Can we go back next year?  That pretty much sums up how much we loved our trip.  Traveling by train our route included Paris, Cannes, and Nice in France with a side trip to Monaco.  Then on to Italy where we stopped in Milan and Lake Como.  We finished the trip in Switzerland stopping in Lucern and Zurich with day trips to Interlaken and Engleberg.     

Paris in springtime was everything we imagined and more.  Cafe’s, the food, and the people.   We walked everywhere typically logging 10 miles a day.  Why go underground on the metro when there is so much to see on the streets.  Fast food here is baguettes made simply with ham and cheese or stuffed with other goodies like grilled eggplant, buffalo mozzarella and delicate lettuce piled high in the windows for you to grab on the go or sit at one of their outdoor tables.   Coffee is an art meant to linger over.  Lunch is around 2:00 and dinner doesn’t start until 7:30.  I’m still dreaming of scrambled eggs the French way.  We really didn’t have many large meals but simply grazed from one place to the next.   Good wine is served everywhere and very reasonably priced.  

Our first night. A little jet lagged but that didn’t stop us from finding some tapas at this little place across from our hotel. That yellow mound in the background is butter with sea salt for the baguettes. You can serve yourself.  Heaven!

The Seine

We had a list of foods to try and a crepe was definitely on there.

Traveling by train is so much more civilized than by air and it is so easy.  Our six hour ride from Paris to the South of France allowed us to see much of the French countryside with the Alps in the distance.  Both Cannes and Nice were very much resort towns and really different from Paris.  We took a day trip to Monaco visiting the Prince’s palace for the changing of the guards and a stroll inside the Monte Carlo casino.

View of Cannes and the marina with the mega yachts.

Outdoor market in the South of France. Torture!


Casino Monte Carlo

Milan is not so much of a tourist destination as other parts of Italy, but it gave us a taste of the country for a future trip.  Museums, shopping, and of course the food.  Pasta cooked to perfection tossed in amazing sauces.  Mounds of fresh Italian buffalo milk cheese made from mozzarella and cream known as burrata.  Pizza topped traditionally or with only one item like thin slices of zucchini or peppers.   We wish we could have tried every one but the free food at happy hours filled us up.  Highlights include the Duomo de Milan where you actually walk up on the roof of this magnificent cathedral.  We also toured the Renaissance Castle Castello Sforzesco where we saw Rondanini Pieta the last sculpture Michelangelo was working on when he died and Leonardo da Vinci’s famous piece, Madonna Lia.

Duomo de Milan.  From the roof we could peer down at the plaza.

On our way up to the roof. We opted for the stairs instead of the elevator. What were we thinking?

The roof. It slants down. A bit scary!

The inside of the cathedral. It was massive.

Rondanini Pieta is a marble sculpture that Michelangelo worked on from 1552 until the last days of his life in 1564.

We next headed up to the Lake Como area where we hoped to spend time using the ferry to hop from town to town for a day.  But our good luck with the weather ran out and we had a rainy time there.  We did see Varenna and Bellagio before heading to the town of Como for our train ride through the Swiss Alps to Switzerland.

Varenna was a quaint town on the shores of Lake Como.

Bellagio along the shores of Lake Como. Lots of shopping and great restaurants.  We never let a little rain deter us and truthfully cobblestone is prettier when wet.

One of the cafes in Bellagio

Waiting for the ferry from Varenna to the town of Como

Switzerland is absolutely beautiful.  If you are a fan of the Sound of Music, it is hard not to hum the theme song as you are traveling through.  I know, wrong country!  We chose to stay in Lucern and take day trips to the mountains.  We were also in search of fondue and we found that in Interlaken with a nice cold bottle of wine.  Our train trip up to Engleberg and then via cable car to the top of Mount Titlas at a little over 10,000 feet was amazing.  We reached the top on a clear day with views for miles and a balmy 42 degrees.



Our view from the train up to Interlaken, Switzerland.

Interlaken, Switzerland

Fondue with a cold glass of wine in the Swiss Alps. I was in heaven.

Our train ride to Engleberg, Switzerland.

On our way via cable car to the top of Mount Titlas. That is not the top you see but rather where we transferred to a cable car that rotated 360 degrees.

Now we are at the top.

Gary on the suspension bridge over the glacier.

Engleberg, Switzerland

We spent our last few days in Zurich before flying home.  Reflecting on the trip we both felt we had really planned well.  Twenty six days, 3 countries (4 if you count Monaco), 8 cities, 13 train rides, 5 hotels and 4 AirBnB’s carrying only a backpack each and one shared day pack.  

Springtime in Paris

Harry’s New York Bar in Paris drinking a Manhattan and a French 75.

Fair winds,


Charleston, South Carolina

Once hurricane Irma and Maria passed us, we had a few days between storms where we could slip away and visit Charleston.  On our way, we stopped overnight in Beaufort SC.  Nice town but we were surprised how built up and populated the town and outer islands were.  Somehow we had the impression Beaufort would be a sleepy little town. NOT!

Beaufort South Carolina a few sailboats in the distance

I guess you could say the French Quarter in Charleston is the sophisticated sister of the French Quarter in New Orleans.  Lots of expensive old homes and high end shops along King Street.  We stayed right in the heart of the French Quarter at the Mills House, which opened in 1853.  A bit pricey but we had one free night from to use so splurge we did.


Charleston firehouse

Husk is a popular restaurant here.  We had dinner on the second floor porch.

Our drinks at the Cane Rhum Bar in Charleston

Famous Pineapple fountain in Charleston

For the history buffs there is a lot of civil war history in this area.  Fort Sumter where the first shots of the Civil War were fired is out in the harbor.  We didn’t take a plantation tour but there are several in the area.

While we enjoyed Charleston, Nola is still tops on our list.

Fair winds,


New Orleans, Louisiana (NOLA)


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You either hate it or love it.  We love NOLA.  While Gary and I had previously been to NOLA a few times, Austin only heard the stories (or some of them anyway).  So when he asked us if we wanted to meet up with him and Nicki there, the answer was heck ya!

Our first stop was Acme Oyster House and a first for us was trying the charbroiled oysters.  Up until then we’ve only enjoyed them raw.  I know, some of you are going eeew.

Acme Oyster House

What happens in NOLA stays in NOLA so this post will be mostly pictures 🙂

Austin and Nicki with Gary strolling to his own beat down Canal Street.

The horse and carriage ride is a bit on the expensive side, but well worth it.

This is the St. Charles street car, which takes you down through the Garden District.  Definitely worth a trip to see the beautiful homes and visit a few of the breweries in the area.

They roll their own in this cigar shop.

Louis Armstrong Park is right on the edge of the French Quarter and has several statues in his honor.

The Roosevelt Hotel first opened in 1893 and is home to the Sazerac Bar.

Roosevelt Hotel

On our road trip from Georgia to NOLA we stayed in the Pensacola Grand Hotel for a night.  The lobby is part of the restored Louisville and Nashville passenger depot that was constructed in 1912.

Pensacola is home to the Old Hickory Whiskey Bar where we met one of the better bartenders we’ve ever had.  The bar is named after President Andrew Jackson nicknamed ‘Old Hickory’ who was also the first Territorial Governor of Florida.

So if you are wondering if Austin liked NOLA as much as we do.  Well let’s just say the apple does not fall far from the tree.

Fair winds,


The Finger Lakes in New York State


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Gary’s parents had a popup trailer and they weren’t afraid to use it.  They spent a lot of time camping in New York state especially around the Finger Lakes.  My family didn’t venture out of New Jersey.  So looking to get out of the heat in Georgia and see what Gary has been talking about all these years, we rented a car and drove to Watkins Glen at the south tip of Seneca Lake one of the finger lakes.  While we arrived in rain, the next two days were clear blue skies.  The trailhead for Watkins Glen State Park begins right in town.  Be prepared for stairs and to get wet but the hike up to the highest falls is well worth it.

Watkins Glen State Park

Watkins Glen State Park

Gary getting wet

Me standing a little further away. But we had to pass behind in order to keep going up

We always seem to be close to the water. This one was right outside our hotel. We didn’t pay extra for the water view LOL.

Wanting to see more we headed over to Hammondsport on another finger lake called Keuka Lake.  Aviation buffs will know that as the home of Glenn H. Curtiss.  Curtiss developed engines and motorcycles and then went on to develop ‘flying machines’ at the same time as the Wright brothers.   There is a great museum by his name that not only displays his early motorcycles and planes but boats from that era as well as the precursor for the RV.

Glenn Curtiss Museum

Glenn Curtis Museum

Our third stop was Corning where we visited the Corning Museum.  If you like glass sculptures, this is the place.  We were able to squeeze in their glass blowing demonstration, which was awesome to watch.  Somehow they make it look so easy.

Somehow we only took this one picture in the Corning Museum. I guess we were in awe and forgot to snap any. That is a lynx made out of glass.

We learned a lot of things this trip including that we like Riesling wine.  The guy at Pompous  Ass Wine Company turned us on to it.

Photo courtesy of Ted Beck Jr.

Thank you Barb and Ted for your hospitality!

The Dad’s on Father’s Day enjoying one of the best Bloody Mary’s I’ve had in a long time

My sister Barb and brother-in-law Ted.

Enjoying Czig Meister Brewery in NJ. Thats our handsome nephew Andrew.

Fair winds,


Key West, Miami and Passage to Georgia


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We liked Key West during our visits in the 90’s and yes it is touristy, but we still like it.  Good food, great bar scene and lots of people watching.   A bit pricey for cruisers, but while we were up north we put Sereno over at Stock Island Marina on neighboring Stock Island where it was a little more reasonably priced.  Good marina with shuttle service every hour to the heart of Key West.  After having limited places to eat for so long, we roamed Key West hitting the spots we remembered and a few new ones.  A favorite was Half Shell Raw Bar where we got a dozen oysters for $9.00 during happy hour along with our first Stone Brewery IPA in a long time.   We had so much fun and so little time there we forgot to take pictures!

After racing back to Key West from the wedding, we found the nice weather window to Georgia was going to be interrupted mid way by some serious looking squalls coming off the east coast.  Faced with staying in Key West for what was predicted as three weeks of strong easterly trade winds, we quickly got ready in a few hours and headed out for an overnight passage to South Beach Miami to wait for the squalls to pass over us.  Not a bad place to spend Mother’s Day.

By Monday the bad weather passed so we continued our passage to Georgia.  Unfortunately the seas were a bit rough both nights which made sleeping on our off shifts a bit tough.  But the days were beautiful and in the early morning of the third day we sailed between Jekyll and St Simons islands, under the Sidney Lanier Bridge and into Brunswick Landing Marina our home for this hurricane season.   The US Navy used this area as their hurricane hole so we are fairly confident Sereno is in a good place.

Fair winds,