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Monthly Archives: July 2016

Cartagena, Columbia

22 Friday Jul 2016

Posted by Cindy in Uncategorized

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Alquímico Cartagena, Cartagena Columbia, Donde Fidel, Getsemani, Havana Club, Hotel Casa Del Toro, Walled City Cartagena Columbia

We loved Cartagena, Columbia. We could easily have spent a month there if only we could find an Airbnb in our budget. Great food, awesome latin music and some of the craziest drivers we have seen. And Gary just reminded me, the coffee. Latte, espresso! Gary and I are not fans of Starbucks bitter coffee but Columbian coffee, oh la la!

The hot spot for tourists is the walled city. Cartagena dates back to 1533 and was protected by a wall complete with canons and a drawbridge with moat. Most of the wall and canons are still there but the drawbridge and moat was replaced by a sidewalk. I guess having visitors requesting permission to enter would have been a bit unfriendly. What sets this wall apart from other walled cities we have seen is you can actually walk on top of it.

Walking along the wall gave us a good view of the old city within.

Walking along the wall gave us a good view of the old city within.

The old town within the walled city is very green.  There are several parks and vines and flowers grow off the balconies and walls.

The walled city is very green. There are several parks and vines and flowers grow off the balconies and buildings.

The church in the background is San Pedro Claver Church completed in the first half of the 18th century.

The church in the background is San Pedro Claver completed in the first half of the 18th century.

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Walking the streets in old town was a bit of a challenge.  The sidewalks were narrow forcing you into the street.  But then we were dodging not only cars but horse and carriages.  Pedestrians DO NOT have the right of way anywhere in Cartagena.  I almost got taken out by a police motorcycle!

Walking the streets in the old city was a bit of a challenge. The sidewalks were narrow forcing you into the street. But then we were dodging not only cars but horse and carriages. Pedestrians DO NOT have the right-of-way anywhere in Cartagena. I almost got taken out by a police motorcycle cutting the inside of a blind corner right by our hotel!

The Clock Tower gate is the main entrance to the walled city.  Completed in 1631 this was the only entrance to the walled city from Getsemani via a drawbridge over a moat.

The Clock Tower Gate is the main entrance to the walled city. Completed in 1631 this was the only entrance to the walled city from Getsemani via a drawbridge over a moat.

As with all latin cities we have visited, the locals come out every night and socialize. This was the local square in Getsemani where we stayed at the Casa Del Toro Hotel. A group of kids were playing a soccer game in front of the local church. We kept looking for Jack T. Colter and Joan Wilder amongst the crowd but they evaded us 🙂

We had dinner on this square around the corner from your hotel.

Lucky for Gary they had an ice cream shop where he got a fudge pop dipped in cherries. He did not share 😦

We choose to stay right outside the wall in Getsemani.  This is a residential area with many restaurants and bars.  Here is one restaurant right off the square.  Would have loved to have stayed here longer.

We really enjoyed the local scene in Getsemani. Would have loved to stay longer. Too many places to try, not enough time!

Hotel Casa Del Toro was a beautiful 5 room hotel built by two brothers from Ireland. They preserved the old and added in a modern hip feel. We were the only guests there and the staff was awesome and very friendly. The owner is hoping to make this a small intimate venue for music and dancing. The courtyard with pool, bar and surrounding rooms is ideal for this. He even installed a fog machine and disco lights.

Hotel Casa Del Toro

Hotel Casa Del Toro

Health food on the go. Fast, fresh and cheap! We saw this on many street corners in all the Central American cities we visited and now here in South America. Better than a McDonald’s!

His speciality was watermelon and mangos.  They all varied it what they had to offer.

His speciality was watermelon and mangos. They all varied in what they had to offer.

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These ladies sold fruit by The Clock Tower.  They also walked the streets hoping to get tips for having their picture taken with you.

These ladies sold fruit by The Clock Tower. They also walked the streets hoping to get tips for having their picture taken with you.

We enjoyed one bar in particular where they actually had a knowledgable and creative bartender.

This bar was called Alquimico.  Like most places here, they didn't open until 6:00pm.  The jars you see are all different things marinading.

Alquimico, like most places here, didn’t open until 6:00 pm. The jars you see are all the drink ingredients marinading.

We actually stayed up well past cruisers midnight (9:00 pm for our non sailing friends) to check out two clubs for some sassy latin music. The first was Donde Fidel in the old city where a local gentleman tried to teach me some salsa steps. Needless to say, I have to go on YouTube for lessons lol. The second was the historic Havana Club in Getsemani. This had a live eight piece band. No dancing here but we had a good time people watching with a front row seat to the band.

The Havana Club in Getsemani.

The Havana Club in Getsemani.

Inside the Havana Club.

Inside the Havana Club.

They only served Heineken beer.  Columbia has their own beer so what the heck!

The Havana Club only served Heineken beer. Columbia has their own beer so what the heck!

Havana Club 8 piece band with 2 lead singers.  All dressed in blue shirts and pink ties.  No torn jeans and t-shirts here.

The Havana Club 8 piece band with 2 lead singers. All dressed in blue shirts and pink ties. No torn jeans and t-shirts here.

We ended up in the Clock Tower Pub for two hour waiting out a storm.  Not a bad place to be stuck.

We ended up in the Clock Tower Pub for two hours waiting out a storm. Not a bad place to be stuck.

If you are thinking of visiting Cartagena, one thing to note. If you are a male and want to blend in, do not wear shorts day or night. Local men wear pants, jeans are okay. And certainly don’t wear your baseball cap. We have found this to be true throughout Panama as well.

Fair winds,
Cindy

Passage to Bocas del Toro

08 Friday Jul 2016

Posted by Cindy in Uncategorized

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Bocas del Toro, Red Frog Marina

Our sail to Bocas del Toro is our slowest passage yet. What should have taken 23 hours took us a little over 30 averaging 4.7 knots (we hope for 5.5). We fought a current along with head winds so we had to listen to the drone of the motor the entire time. Sure we could have put the sails up and tacked back and forth but with storms in the area and choppy conditions we wanted to get the heck off the sea as soon as possible. Finally our home for the summer came in to view. Bocas del Toro is an archipelago of islands with many shoals and mangroves scattered around but with the marinas waypoints we had no problems.

Our home for a few months.

Our home for a few months.

Rain has been the name of the game since we arrived. What we refer to as Jersey weather. In between storms we walk the trails, head to the beach, or go out in the dinghy. Our 4th of July BBQ with the other boats actually happened on July 5th due to rain, but a party is a party no matter what day it is when you are retired and in the tropics. We have a few beach bars and restaurants within walking distance.

Nacho Mamas is our beach bar.  Cold beer and good tacos.

Nacho Mamas is our beach bar. Cold beer and good tacos.

Siesta time

Siesta time

Bocas is a surfer town for sure.

Bocas is a surfer town for sure.

The real action along with groceries is in Bocas Town a 15 minute panga ride away. Not ideal for getting out for happy hour and dinner but we did manage to have lunch at the Hungry Monkey, which is a surfing school with a four table restaurant serving great tacos and cold beers. Always amazed at how these little places turn out The Best Food. We also have a craft brewery a little out of town, which makes a very good stout and amber ale. Hoping to get back there when their IPA is ready to tap. They don’t bottle and their growlers will not fit in our tiny refrigerator. Oh wait, I just had a thought. What if we remove all the food!?

A very nice amber ale at Bocas Brewery

A very nice amber ale at Bocas Brewery

We have been caught in town in a downpour and frequently get drenched in the panga when we have a cowboy at the helm when the seas are up. How many gringo’s can we get wet today! Yesterday on our walk, Gary almost stepped on a green vine snake. This thing was a lime green color and I thought it was a piece of a tree branch. So much for snakes scurrying out of your way. Who told us that!? This type of snake is not venomous for humans but could cause a severe allergic reaction. Good to know! Wanted to share in case you are dreaming of sailing off to the tropics. Not for everyone and you pretty much have to keep your sense of humor. But one plus to the frequent downpours is we don’t have to wash the boat. A real plus for me because that is one of my least favorite jobs.

Bocas Town

Bocas Town

Bocas Town

Bocas Town

Fair winds,
Cindy

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