When four weather sites we monitor all say we have a good weather window to get from point A to point B, we gotta go. The boat yard put Sereno back in the water after 4 days, we quickly shopped for some produce and we were on our way by noon. Unfortunately we ran smack into a rough sea state with 20 knot winds against us. How is it that not one site predicted this I ask?!! So on our 36th wedding anniversary instead of a romantic dinner out in Ensenada, I was tossing my cookies over the side of the boat. Gary wouldn’t let me take any of my shifts that night. Why I say, I can multitask! I recovered and the Captain got some rest. We did fair better than some. We left with two other boats and one had to turn back due to rudder problems. Then during the night a sailboat heading north contacted us to say they had turned around because of equipment failures and his wife had been seasick for 50 hours and he needed to get her to land.
We made it to Turtle Bay in a little under 50 hours and were really surprised to find that we had good internet out in the anchorage making it easy to get weather updates. We don’t look forward to going ashore here because the surf makes it difficult to not flip the dinghy. So after we had fuel delivered by panga, we relaxed making pizza on board enjoying a good bottle of wine.
The coast of Baja is impacted by weather as far north as Alaska. When we left Ensenada, large swells were predicted to hit the California coast and those swells were eventually reaching the Baja coast.
Based on the predictions we decided it was time we got to our next stop at Bahia Santa Maria rather than run the risk of a delay in Turtle Bay of a week or more. Christmas was breathing down our neck. So we pulled up anchor at daylight and set off. We almost had a mutiny when we ran out of propane the next morning and there was no hot coffee. But after the seas calmed, we slowed the boat down so Gary, tethered to the boat, could go out on the stern swim step to change out the propane tank. With the exception of five hours over night it was a smooth sail and we anchored in Bahia Santa Maria after 37 hours sailing.
Bahia Santa Maria is a 9 nm long bay that has a very tiny village with no electricity or running water. We were having coffee in the cockpit planning what to make for dinner (seriously we were!) when we saw a panga coming our way and knew our prayers were being answered. After trading two cerveza’s, two cokes and one of Gary’s tee shirts we now had lobster to go along with our steak for dinner. We scored and the fisherman was happy with his take.
Eyeing those swell predictions we decided to not hang around longer than a day to rest up. And we were out of rum anyway. So we began the last and shortest leg at 29 hours to Cabo San Lucas. At 2:30 am on December 10th we sailed across the Tropic of Cancer and were now in the tropics. This was to be the calmest leg of our journey. The exact opposite of our trip up the coast last June. The feared Cabo Falso was a pond with no wind but I’ll take that.
By the time we tied up at our slip in Cabo San Lucas we were on the boat nine days fifty minutes straight. Our longest time yet by far. We are here way earlier than we planned, but now we can relax and let Austin, Nicki and Christmas arrive.