Life in La Paz

27 Friday Mar 2015

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We will be in La Paz until mid May. That should allow us time to get the feel and vibe of the place before we need to move on. There is no better way to do that than to put on our walking shoes. In fact we walked so much I blew out my flip flop (stepping on a pop top, Ha) and Gary had to fix it. The Malecon (their version of a broadwalk) along the waterfront stretches the entire length of the central historic district and is lined with many statues representing the fishing and sea life in the Sea of Cortez.

Beach along the Malecon

The Malecon

A nice shady spot along the Malecon

A boy fishing with nets

From 1616 until 1940 Bahia de La Paz was famous for its natural pearls until the oyster beds were destroyed by a blight.

In honor of the oyster industry

Jacques Cousteau once called the Sea of Cortez ‘the world’s aquarium’. In 2009 the Mexican government renamed “Isla Cerralvo” to “Isla Jacques Cousteau”. When we left our overnight anchorage of Muertos to arrive in La Paz we had to leave early in the morning to pass between what we thought was Isla Cerralvo and the mainland before the winds kicked up and created strong opposing currents. Many in Mexico have not accepted the name change because they were not consulted so most guide books refer to the island under its historical name.

Jacques Cousteau 1910-1997

The Malecon really is the most picturesque part of the city. In other towns we have found pockets of neighborhoods where the architecture catches your eye. Here not so much and I’m thinking the homes and buildings are built very boxy and low because of hurricanes. We have not seen any damage here from hurricane Odile’s visit in September last year like we did in Cabo San Lucas.

A small B & B. It is hilly here so walks are a good workout.

The church off the main plaza

La Paz has big box stores like WalMart that are out of the central district. Within walking distance to our marina we have the local markets where we can get fruits, vegetables, fish, beef and even lunch. Nothing is done ‘in the back’, all the chopping off of cow and fish heads is pretty much done right in front of you. No pictures of this gruesome task.

As we were sailing in last week, I commented to Gary that if you take away the water we could easily be in Arizona. We left the tropics of mainland Mexico and came back to the desert of the Baja and this region is no exception. Though, the water is absolutely stunning. Crystal clear with beautiful turquoise and blues. Cannot wait to get out into the Sea of Cortez. We have been busy exploring on foot and getting our arrangements made for our trip to Arizona for Austin’s graduation. But we move the boat to another marina next week that is outside of town and closer to the entrance to the bay. We can then start planning some trips up to the northern parts of the Sea of Cortez. I read that some areas around La Paz have venomous sea snakes. So more research is needed because this girl is not getting anywhere near sea snakes.

The Sea of Cortez is calling us

Boat Music

24 Tuesday Mar 2015

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In deciding what to bring on this adventure, we selected those items that meant the most to us for one reason or another and seemed somewhat practical to bring on a boat. My favorite picture of Austin, a Hawaiian Santa Steve had given us, our Buddha from the BVI’s and two ceramic figures from local artists we picked up on our travels. Okay maybe the last two were not so practical! We also brought martini and wine glasses because after all you can’t properly chill a plastic martini glass or drink a fine wine from a plastic wine glass 🙂 Each breakable item has a specific place where it is stored during passages.

Before leaving the relative calm of the San Diego Bay and hitting the big ocean I went through the boat and made sure everything was as secured as I could. That meant going through all the cabinets and making sure they were full enough so that once we hit the ocean swells, nothing would go flying or break. We had a lot of food for four people so the food locker was quite full. We exited the bay out into the ocean under beautiful bright blue skies and so the boat ‘music’ began. Wine bottles and glasses clanging like a cymbal, the steal drum sound of cans, clattering dishes like tambourines, and the xylophone sound of silverware. All combined with a melody of crashing waves hitting the hull creating a symphony of heavenly music. The volume and beat was steady no crescendo culminating in broken glass. Whew I guess I did alright!

Then the sun set, the stars and moon appeared and watch schedules began. The aft cabin contains the food locker and engine all located under the cockpit. Cans rattling, cockpit table swaying back and forth, crew noises, wood creaking, water splashing against the stern not to mention the drone of the engine if it was on. It was described as the ‘House of Horrors’. In the main cabin, the roll of the boat mirrored the clang of dishes and bottles. Instead of counting sheep I was counting the clang of wine bottles. In the cockpit the engine exhaust sounds like thunder and one evening Gary and I both were positive that Greg was playing music in the aft cabin. NOT!

We have since learned how to really batten down the boat when on passages. And if we are anchored out where the boat is constantly moving, we have about five things we need to secure before going to bed. Otherwise somebody is getting up in the middle of the night. It took us two days to figure out that a small squeak that was keeping us awake was a latch on our companion way door.

But when all is quite in the cockpit, I still hear music playing.

The culprit that took us two days to find

The squeaky culprit that took us two days to find

Mazatlan Vibe

15 Sunday Mar 2015

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Basilica De La Inmaculada Concepcion, El Presidente, Mazatlan

When we go out to dinner we really enjoy sitting at the bar so we can meet people. In Mexico there are very few restaurants that have a sit down bar. We lucked upon one the other night by chance. We needed reservations at the restaurant we wanted to go to so a guy who looked like he was a member of the band that was setting up recommended we try El Presidio. As luck would have it we scored. This place had a real bar with barstools and we sat down next to a lovely couple who have lived in Mazatlan for a few years. So we got the low down on where to go the next evening, which was Saturday.

Plazuela Machado is the place to be for people watching, both locals and tourists, on a Saturday night. This is the central plaza for Old Town Mazatlan. It is surrounded by restaurants with entertainment and craft vendors.

We arrived around 5 PM when the restaurants were just setting up their tables.

Tables waiting for diners

There were several girls all dressed up each having a photo shoot. I mean like hundreds of pictures taken. This is the celebration of a girl’s 15th birthday called La Quincenra.

La Quincenra celebration of a girl’s 15th birthday

We wanted to get some pictures of the streets before sunset so we set out walking the surrounding area.

A few blocks away is the Cathedral, Basilica De La Inmaculada Concepcion. Construction was finished in 1899 and the crown jewel is the pipe organ, built in France by Aristides Cavaillie. It is believed that the organ was first played in May 1899.

We could only sneak one picture of the inside as there was a wedding going on and another one waiting. From the number of brides we saw it appeared that there was a wedding scheduled every hour.

Wedding in the Cathedral

It appears this pretty flower girl was awarded a big bag of candy for being a good girl. Notice that her lipstick matches her bow.

Pretty flower girl

And this little guy was all decked out in his tuxs.

The red sneakers match his bow tie. What a cutie

Here is one of the many bride and grooms we saw

The bride and grooms ride

One of the things I learned early on after moving to California is that family is very important to Mexicans and they so love children! We see that daily here and we really enjoy watching them interact. We have watched several weddings from afar and it is always a large festive family event. The wedding guests are all dressed ‘to the nines’. The men in suits and the women of all ages dressed in ball gowns. What always catches my attention is the shoes. I can’t wear heels. But here women of all ages wear stiletto heels and high platforms. I wanted Gary to start taking pictures of the shoes but NOT.

As the sun set, restaurants came alive and music filled the air with the sounds of Mexico.

Tables empty earlier are now full

Up to now the food we have had in Mexico is ‘good simple food’, mostly mom and pop restaurants. Here in Mazatlan, the food is more complex with an international flare. Though we like simple food, it was a nice change to have some more complex flavors and variety. And restaurants have actual wine and cocktail lists. Typically your choice for vino (wine) is one blanco (white) or one rojo (red) LOL. Sadly, no craft beer.

Here is our ride. Pulmonias are unique to Mazatlan. They are open air and a lot like golf carts but much faster. We were told that they are cheaper than a taxi, but not from our experience! You pay the same price for the privilege of smelling gas fumes and praying you don’t go flying out when the driver is swerving in and out of traffic like the Indiana Jones Ride at Disneyland.

A great martini

Whales, Crab Pots, and an Aerial Show

13 Friday Mar 2015

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Banderas Bay

The west coast of Mexico is the winter breeding ground for grey whales. We saw a far amount of them from a distance both on the trip down from San Diego and while in Banderas Bay. But nothing like what we saw on our three day passage from Banderas Bay to Mazatlan. Our first morning started out calm enough with one going past us as we were leaving the bay. A little closer than usual on our port side but nothing to get excited about. As the day progressed we saw a few more, again a little closer than usual. Our second day things got, shall I say, a bit exciting. The first thing we come upon is a field of crab pots. It is almost impossible to see these until you are right upon them. With Gary on the bow and me at the helm we had to pick our way around them slowly so that we didn’t catch any of the lines in the propeller. We had no wind so sailing through was not an option. Once we got by we both settled back down in the cockpit. A short time later Gary yells whale. Sure enough there is not one but two whales on a direct line to cross in front of our bow. We had to put the boat in neutral to stop for the ‘whale crossing’. They passed right in front of the boat a few yards off. They were so ‘slow’ and graceful that Gary had enough time to get the camera and take some pictures.

We must have missed the ‘Whale Crossing’ sign

They seem to travel in pairs. Look how close they swim together!

We had whales cross the bow two more times but the most thrilling (or I should say heart stopping, OMG!) sighting awaited us right before sunset. We often have dolphins swim along side the boat. It seems like they make a game out of running with the boat, leaping in the air and generally look like they are having a lot of fun. They make us laugh and it breaks up the monotony of a long passage. We were traveling along about 5 miles off shore in fairly shallow water about 75 feet. We had enough close encounters of the whale kind to last a while and we thought they would stay out in deeper water. I heard a loud splash to my left and when I looked over I saw a wall of water. Yup, we had two whales who for some reason decided to play about 50 yards from the boat! You can imagine the noise and spray when these massive bodies leap straight up out of the water and then immediately fall back in. It is so quick it takes a second to register what you just saw. Gary tried to get a picture but by the time the shutter went off he got only spray. The show went on for a few minutes before they moved off. We are not sure why in the whole ocean they chose to play next to the boat. The hum of the engine could have intrigued them but they certainly looked like they were having as much fun as the dolphins. I am hoping that was a once in a life time experience. I much prefer to view them at a safer distance!

This was one heck of a belly flop. They fall so fast getting a picture while in the air is almost impossible

On the way up we spent one night anchored in Chacala Bay.

The setting sun on our overnight passage right after the whale show

Thanks Arland for snapping a picture of Gary in our ‘car’. This was right before it started raining 🙂

San Sebastián de Oeste

08 Sunday Mar 2015

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The winds howling down the Sea of Cortez are keeping us here in Banderas Bay. Lucky for us, Arland is back and he offered to rent a car and drive us all up to San Sebastián de Oeste. This is an old mining town 4,500 feet up in the Sierra Madre Mountains. The ride up was beautiful with cattle, corn and coffee plantations. Lots of small towns with speed bumps. Mexico has speed bumps entering and leaving every town no matter if the town only has a few buildings. We stopped at a tequila distillery on the way. Pretty little place but the prices were way over our budget.

Small tequila distillery on the way to San Sabastian

Small tequila distillery on the way to San Sebastián

They also made liquores

Arland hanging at the tequila distillery

San Sebastián De Oeste was founded in 1605 as a gold and silver mine. At one time the population was 40,000, but only 600 live there now. The mines are said to be partly responsible for the development of Puerto Vallarta, known then as Las Peñas. It supplied salt by mules to the mines which was used in the smelting process. The gold and silver was sent by mule to Veracruz, where it was delivered to Spain once a year.

A picture of the miners. Not a happy looking crew.

Busses and tourist vans visit the town but it still has an old town feel to it. In part because there are only a few shops, restaurants and hotel rooms. Many buildings have been saved and reconstruction is done with an eye on the history of the town.

The town had a fort in order to protect the mines. Today it is used for special events.

Inside the courtyard at the fort

From one of the older sections of the fort

Today the courtyard is a peaceful place to take a nap

We enjoyed a nice Italian meal at Montebello.

The church was originally built in the 1600’s then rebuilt after an earthquake in 1868.

A shopkeeper came running after us asking if we would come visit her newly opened store. She mentioned the word ‘candy’ so we just had to stop by. We came away with some very different candies.